Venice: 3 Stars

*Originally posted on apanueloworld.com regarding a trip in 2017.

As part of my 2017 sibling trip across Europe, we visited Italy. Venice was our first stop and left me with mixed feelings. I liked 3 things about Venice, so I will start with that.

  1. It’s very pretty.  Picturesque.  Instaworthy.  Whatever you want to call it.  You have to be a pretty bad photographer to get bad pictures in Venice.  The city makes it easy for you.

IMG_20170629_103456025_HDRaIMG_20170629_134003404a2.  We discovered hand dipped ice cream bars here.  That means that the ice cream is dipped in liquid chocolate and drizzled with the toppings of your choosing.  We liked this a lot!

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Magnum Ice Cream Bar with custom toppings.

3.  We started our day early, before the crowds really hit.  We had breakfast in a cafe that felt real.  I like travel to be about real experiences outside my regular routine.  Unfiltered, perhaps unphotogenic, but real experiences.  So I liked breakfast because the people around us were getting ready for work and speaking Italian and NOT tourists like us.

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Fairly empty streets.
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People working hard, even if I’m not.
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I just liked this old lady walking through this square, I don’t know why.

Now, down to the details.

Where we stayed.

We were only in Venice for one night and we stayed at the Antica Villa Graziella.  It’s on the mainland which was fine with me because it’s more reasonably priced and I didn’t have to carry my luggage over 17 bridges myself.   It had wifi and air conditioning and parking so it served our interests well.

What we did.

We arrived in the evening just in time to catch dinner and get rained on.  Now, this was no little shower.  It involved thunder and lightening and me questioning why I was running up bridges with a lightening rod of an umbrella and actually crouching down so as to not feel like the tallest peek around.  Yeah.  Drama drama. But it’s a pretty amusing memory now, so it’s okay.

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Troy bought an umbrella. Vanessa did not. I brought my own from home. :)
We each have our own
feelings about getting

The next day the sun shone and we hit the streets early, as mentioned.  We roamed and shopped (which is mainly what there is to do), until our designated ‘glass blowing tour’ meet up time.

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Yes, she did buy this mask.
Proof we were here.
I really came to love roof lines on this trip.
Classic canal shot.

We had wanted to visit Murano Island for the real deal glass blowing tour but ran out of time, so this was our compromise.  And what a compromise!  We paid $7 to watch a 3 minute demonstration of glass blowing, hear a 5 minute history of its history in Venice, and then, full access to shop in their store.  I’ve never paid to shop before, and especially not for fragile glass items that probably wouldn’t make it home.  At the end we got a gift to go, aka, a glass horse.  You guessed it, I didn’t wrap it right and it broke on the flight home.  Needless to say, the tour was a bit of a comical disappointment.

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Short glass blowing demonstration.

Then we roamed some more until it was time to get in the car to our next destination, Cinque Terre.

My regrets about Venice are:

  1. I didn’t take any tours so I have no context of it in history or as a place except a tourist destination.
  2. The pathetic glass blowing tour.
  3. THE CROWDS.  They speak for themselves.  And totally interrupt all my photos!
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Tourists on a bridge in Venice.
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The picture they ^ were taking.

Since I don’t like to end blogs on a sad note, I think this is a good spot to put photos of St. Mark’s Basilica.  It’s another one of my regrets that I didn’t actually explore it but it’s beautiful, so here!  Bonus: the people watching is pretty good in this square too.

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St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice

Austria Part 2: Slowing the Pace

*Originally posted on apanueloworld.com regarding a trip in 2017.

Last post I shared what my siblings and I did in 24 hours in Vienna.  This week, I’m moving west across the country and forward in time to our days in Hallstatt and Salzburg.

So, here’s the thing about Austria…. we loved it.

Somewhere between the mountain views and beautiful architecture we just kinda, well, we liked it a lot!  According to a tour guide we had in Vienna, the difference between Austria and Germany (both German-speaking countries) is that Austria is Catholic and Germany is Protestant, which she claimed makes Austria more laid back (since they can earn their way back into favor with God) and Germany more intense (since they need to be right with God at all times).  We didn’t spend much time in Germany, but after 5 days in Austria, I wouldn’t disagree.  Austria gives the impression of laid-backness and pleads with its visitors to be present in the moments they’re in, instead of rushing from thing to thing.  Case in point, Hallstatt.

Hallstatt

Hallstatt is a little mountain lake town about half way between Vienna and Salzburg.  If you are driving, it’s a must stop.  We only spent half a day in Hallstatt as its main attraction is just the general beauty of it.  It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Sight, so obviously we aren’t the only ones who thought it was pretty.  There is an option to take a cable car up and down a nearby mountain.  We chose to ride up and hike down.  I definitely recommend it!

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Little Hallstatt homes with signs to remind the tourists that real people live here.
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The Hallstatt ‘Skywalk’
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A proper World Heritage View.
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Ask my sister how she feels about Hallstatt.  (She’s a big fan.)
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I’m inclined to say that the hike down was rather steep!
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Hiking views of Hallstatt proper.  No complaints here about the steep trail.
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I imagine winter is quite cold?

Once down the mountain, we roamed the streets.  Packed with shops and tourists we eventually found lunch and had our very first schnitzel of the trip.

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The Marktplatz
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Church steeple over private climbing wall.  These people are living the life!
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I wish I could remember the name of this place to tell you to go here.
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Classic Hallsatt

To wrap up our day, we followed a sign to some ladies chilling by the boat dock and rented an hour boat ride.  It was a motor boat but only allowed for slow progress around the lake, which really was perfect because we got to soak up the views and one spin around took the whole hour.

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Karston was happy to captain.
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When in Hallstatt, you MUST rent a boat!
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Blue sky.  Blue water. Blue mountains.
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And swans!
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Seriously, the view from the boat is the best.

Salzburg

From Hallstatt we continued west to Salzburg.  Once the seat of archbishops and wealth (acquired due to the salt trade industry) Salzburg is a small city strewn with cobblestone and history.  In an attempt to catch it all in our one day in town, us girls went on a Sound of Music bike tour and the boys explored the castle.   A bike tour is an excellent way to see a city but it’s always better when everyone on the tour CAN bike.  Aside from that, I learned that I’m not a die-hard Sound of Music fan and found the general history of Salzburg to be the highlight of the tour.  The boys seemed to really enjoy the castle but I have no idea what they learned there, so I can’t speak to that.

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Alpine city views from our apartment.
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We have bikes with baskets.
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Three sisters, pre- Sound of Music tour.
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Fountain from the movie.
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The ACTUAL abbey that Fräulein Maria attended, complete with singing nuns!
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The view from the abbey.  Love the layers here!

And that was it.

Why you should go to Salzburg:

  1. If you are a Sound of Music fan, it’s the location of the film and actual events from these people’s lives, so it’s definitely worth seeing in person and makes the movie even more fun to watch later.
  2. If you are NOT a Sound of Music fan, it’s a city known for it’s Baroque style architecture and has some very interesting Holy Roman Empire history that we barely touched.
  3. It’s easy to navigate by foot or bike.
  4. It’s close enough to Hallstatt for a beautiful and relaxing day trip.
  5. It has enough to do to keep you busy but not too much that you can’t take time to enjoy it.
  6. To tell me all the cool things that we missed out on.  (We really enjoyed Austria but I know we didn’t see it all.  Maybe you could tell us what we missed?)

Vienna in 24 Hours

*Originally posted on apanueloworld.com regarding a trip in 2017.

If I had to use one word to describe Vienna it would be: Classy. 

Vienna was once the capitol of both the Austrian Empire and the Holy Roman Empire, in their times, and home to its royals.  It has a few palaces spread across town, uplifting the general style of architecture to demonstrate the true beauties of its day.  It’s also considered to be the city of music, with many classical composers claiming it as home, including Beethoven and Mozart.  Finally, it’s also where cafe culture began.  Need I say more?  It’s a city strewn with the history of influential people and its energy can be felt as you walk those same streets.

Planning for this part of our trip, we decided to include several touristy destinations in our time there.  Now, usually I don’t love the touristy things, but Vienna was my exception.  Intriguing history, beautiful buildings, and walk-able streets made everything we did enjoyable.

We started with Schönbrunn Palace.  Once the summer lodge of the Habsburg royal family it is now a tourist destination offering history and manicured gardens.  To be honest, as I had no background knowledge of the Habsburgs, I got a little confused on the audio tour about who exactly we were talking about in each room.  But that didn’t keep me from thoroughly enjoying it.

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Schönbrunn Palace before it’s overtaken by crowds.

Word to the wise: it’s worth going first thing in the morning.  Saves you from the crowds!

After the history part, comes the nature part.  Schönbrunn Palace has acres of gardens, fountains, and paths (including mazes!).  It’s the perfect place to roam and offers great views of the city below as you hike.

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The palace through a lemon tree.
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Schönbrunn Palace and Gardens
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This is what happens when I make my brother pose.
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American children, enjoying the gardens of Europe.  We are garden novices.
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Flowers and fountains
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Imagining we are at a royal garden party instead of part of a tour.
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My sister is a-maze-ing!
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My baby sister and her hubby, conquering the carved out shrubs.
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With all that sun beating down on us, we stopped for ice cream.
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We made it to the top!
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Schönbrunn Palace and Vienna spread out below us.
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On the hike down Troy proclaimed, “There’s a bench, let’s take a picture!”  Okay, if you insist.
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Bri’s sunglasses offered entertainment while we figured out where we were going.

Next, we headed into downtown Vienna for lunch and a walking tour.

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History is afoot.
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We had lunch at Cafe Central.  According to the internet, Cafe Central has had numerous famous patrons, including politicians and intellectual masterminds.  In January 1913 alone, Sigmund Freud, Joseph Stalin, Hitler, and Trotsky all visited the establishment.  There is something interesting about lunching where historical figures once ate.  It makes time seem like an illusion of sorts.

Arched ceilings and pastry options. Win win.
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Even the salad is beautiful.
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Because Viennese cake is a thing, I had to try it.

We ended our day at the Vienna State Opera.  You can get standing room tickets for 3 Euros!

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Vienna State Opera House

What we learned in the process:

1. There is a dress code.  The boys were denied access because they were wearing shorts.  They weren’t that upset, so it’s okay.

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2.  Going early ensures better views, but they are all pretty far from the stage.

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3. To save your spot, mark it with a scarf or your program.

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Pre-show anticipation.

4. The text of the opera is available in English and German (I think?) in the form of scrolling words across individual boxes in front of your standing spots.

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Sun-burnt and warm, we sat on the floor, waiting for it to start.

5. No matter how cool the experience is, if you’ve already walked 7 miles in the hot sun that day, you will be too tired to stand or even stay for the entirety of the show.  That’s okay too.

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We left early and got hot dogs.

Why you should go:

  1. It feels quintessentially European.  So if you are looking for the Europe experience, you will be sure to get it.
  2. Beautiful buildings.  IMG_20170621_125456732a
  3. It’s steeped in history, arts, music, and culture, perfect for diverse interests.
  4. It’s recommended, by all of us.
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End of the day smiles in Vienna.  They speak for themselves.

Prague: The Start of an Adventure

*Originally posted on apanueloworld.com regarding at trip in 2017.

In June of 2017, we landed in Prague, Czech Republic to begin our sibling ‘Euro Trip,’ as we called it.  Prague was an excellent city to start in because it’s so quintessentially European that it puts you in the right mood, right away.

On our first night we found our apartment and dinner.

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We’ve landed in Prague!
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Our first impressions were excellent.
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I don’t remember everything I ate on our Euro Trip, but I do remember this goulash.  Yum!

The next morning we found our first free walking tour of the trip. I know I say this often, but walking tours are an excellent way to orient yourself to a new place, both historically and geographically.  Free walking tours allow you to book without paying, not show up if your plans change, and tip at the end based on how you thought it was.  We usually tipped about $10/person.  Our walking tour in Prague lead us through Old Town, past the infamous Astronomical Clock, and through the neighborhood we were staying in, the Jewish Quarter.

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Prague Astronomical Clock

Since the tour ended only a few blacks from our apartment, we explored a little before returning to our flat for the bathroom, wifi, and a short nap. After a full day of traveling to arrive, we were all pretty tired.

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Group selfie along the Vltava River.
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Jewish synagogue by our apartment.
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View of Jewish graveyard from our flat. We learned on the walking tour that the reason the gravestones are so close together is because the city would not allow the Jews to bury their dead anywhere else.  So, when they ran out of space they added another layer of dirt and caskets and moved the stones to the top.

After our naps we walked to Prague Castle.  It was a long walk, but an excellent way to explore!  We found cool buildings and gardens along the way.

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By the way, if you walk to Prague Castle you will be facing many, many steps, but you won’t die.
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The view is worth the hike.
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There is an option to pay to see more of Prague Castle.  Or, you can do the free version that we did and just walk the grounds.  Prague Castle is the largest ‘ancient castle’ in the world, so there is plenty to see without paying.  I would recommend timing your trip to see the changing of the guards.

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We ended our day with a search for Trdelniks, a Czech pastry.  It’s kind of like a crispy doughnut ice cream cone.  They are sold at many cash-only street stands, which lead us to our next challenge, finding an ATM.  Eventually, the ATM was found, the cash was acquired and the Trdelniks were enjoyed in Old Town Square.  It was a fly-by day in Prague but we thoroughly enjoyed it!

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Trdelniks and us.
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Prague’s Old Town Square.

For our last morning in Prague we decided to get up early and see the Charles Bridge before the crowds hit.  The Charles Bridge is pedestrian only and offers incredible city views.  Even with our 7 am visit time, we were not alone.

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Group shot on the Charles Bridge with an overexposed Prague Castle in the background.

From the bridge we walked to breakfast, then back to our apartment to collect our things and go pick up our rental car.  We loved our apartment in the Jewish Quarter and I would recommend it to you, but I see that they no longer have it listed on booking.com, so I can’t.   That said, the entryway had this big mirror, which we liked a lot too.

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While our entire time in Prague was ideal, we ended it on a rather sour note.  We bought the wrong tickets (entirely by accident because we don’t read Czech) to ride the train.  As we came down the escalators to the train we got stopped by two ‘officers’ who waved IDs, inspected our tickets, confiscated our passports, and took us back up the escalators to show us conveniently located fine print in English (not at all near the kiosks) of our errors and penalties.  Then they took us to the ATM so we could pay our fines, in cash.  $34 per person.  Needless to say, the following endeavors to find our rental car agency were clouded with sour moods.  And yet, we survived it.

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Why you should go to Prague:

  1. It has unique European history due to its locational overlap in being part of both the Holy Roman Empire and the Iron Curtain.
  2. Beautiful, well preserved Old Town.
  3. It’s very walkable but also has good public transportation options (if you can figure out the tickets).
  4. More affordable than most European destinations.

Spain, Before Columbus

*Originally posted on apanueloworld.com regarding a trip in 2017.

The first time I remembering hearing specifically about southern Spain was in my college sophomore “Spanish Culture & History” class.  Before this class my knowledge of Spain was that it’s home to tapas, bull fighting, and Spanish.  As it turns out, Spain has a lot more going on.

For example, did you know that southern Spain was ruled by Muslims for about 780 years?  Muslims and Jews were both expelled from Spain in 1492 after a very long (about 780 year) war.  Christopher Columbus wasn’t the only one doing things for Spain that year, I guess.  Now, 500 years after the Muslims (or Moors, as they were called) were defeated, you can still see, hear, and taste the Muslim influence in this region.

Where we stayed:

My entire goal when planning a visit to Granada was to see the Alhambra.  Quite by accident, we ended up staying in a perfect part of town to see everything else too.  Our hotel ended up being walking distance from all the best neighborhoods and a block from the bus, which made for easy airport and Alhambra transport.  We stayed at Hotel Inglaterra and I would recommended it based on location, helpfulness of staff, and general cleanliness.

Our street.
The entrance.
Our balcony. Big enough for toes.

What we did:

As I mentioned, the Alhambra was our goal.  The Alhambra is a palace and fortress complex that was built in the 13th century by Mohammad ben Al-Ahmar, of the last dynasty of Muslim rulers in Spain.  When the region was finally reclaimed by Christians the Alhambra became the royal court for King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella.  There is a lot more history involved with these grounds but I’m going to leave that for you to discover when you book a tour like we did.

Our first impression of the palace was of the gardens.  Tranquil and immaculate, they are hidden behind walls, enclosed in courtyards and floating on terraces.  According to our guide, the private gardens reflect the Muslim values of intimacy and privacy, with true beauty pointing up to heaven.

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View of the main palace from the summer palace.
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It’s not hard to imagine that these are old, old buildings.
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A gardened terrace.
This enclosed garden actually made me gasp aloud.  I was not expecting to walk into a room like this after entering the front door.
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Walking from the summer palace to the main palace on old city streets.
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City ruins, if you can imagine it.
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Vanessa and I, hanging out at the city gate.

The main palace is a labyrinth of intricately designed walls and doors leading through more gardens and royal rooms (like throne rooms and entry halls).  Themes of heavenward facing designs, calm waters, and detailed geometry permeate the spaces.

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Symmetry in the Alhambra.
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The lion fountain.
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Details, details.
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Another random garden to surprise me.
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A city view.
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I took a seat in the throne room.  Not on the throne, of course.
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Of note, the sound I associate with the Alhambra is the sound of trickling water.  Each of the palaces exhibit fountains, pools, and a network of channels like this one, bringing tranquility to the once royal chambers.

Albaicin Neighborhood

Day two of our stay we headed to the UNESCO World Heritage neighborhood Albaicin, essentially the old Muslim quarter.  There we found markets, white walled homes, and hidden gardens.

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We were told that if we see a sign for a ‘Carmen’ to go in.  On the occasions that we were brave enough, we were greeted with secret gardens and city views.

Roam the streets

As it turns out, the Albaicin neighborhood wasn’t the only place within walking distance of our hotel that offered cool views and snacks.

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Eternal street lights.
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A fountain, in a square, in Spain.

Flamenco Show

While in Granada we also caught a traditional Flamenco show.  Flamenco dancing and music originate from this region and I would definitely recommend seeing a show if you’re ever there.  The shows are a combination of wailing singing and clap dancing, if there is such a thing.  The history and significance is lost to me but the experience is fun.

Excited for the show to start.
Intense amount of clapping, even while dancing.

What we ate:

Food in Spain was confusing for us to figure out because they eat meals much later and snack more often.  For example, we went out for breakfast at 9 and couldn’t find anything open until lunch, so we got corner store snacks and tried again later.  I’m sure Spaniards have a better process for this, but google wasn’t too helpful.

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Smoothie from the corner stand.
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Churros and chocolate, because, hello Spain!
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Shwarma, because, hello Muslim influences!

Why you should go to Granada:

  1. It’s so different from the rest of Europe, historically and culturally.  The blend of European and Muslim and Jewish is just so unique.  Especially if this is a stop on your Euro trip, it will help you understand the spectrum of experiences that Europeans have had across time.
  2. It’s a walkable city and the streets beg to be explored by foot.
  3. It’s cheaper than most places we traveled.  For example, our centrally placed hotel was about $23 per person per night.  Most of our accommodations on the trip ran $30-$40 and weren’t located as well.
  4. It’s a place that will surprise you with good things.  Unless you have some inside connection that I didn’t have, I’m going to guess that you (like me before my trip) don’t have a preconceived idea of what Southern Spain is like.  Good!  That’s the perfect way to explore a place, because everything you discover will be a happy surprise!

Barcelona, The Vibrant City

*Originally posted on apanueloworld.com regarding a trip in 2017.

If I had to describe Barcelona in one word it would be ‘vibrant.’ Barcelona is a city, not only of history, but of colors. It’s built on the ruins of the original Roman city and was home to gifted artists, including Gaudi and Picasso, who changed its landscape in interesting ways. It’s popularity has waxed and waned across time until it hosted the Summer Olympics of 1992. When Barcelona was accepted to be the host of the Olympics its residents rallied together, working to no only build Olympic stadiums, but a destination city worth hosting. They brought in palm trees, extended the beach, and invested in their future. Now, they can see the pay out in their extensive tourist economy. According to our walking tour guide, Barcelona hosts more visitors than residents every year!

Where we stayed:

We got a private room in this hostel nearish to Plaza Catalunya. It was clean, had a fun view, and was within walking distance to Old City, which we liked. We ended up walking a lot in Barcelona because it was easier than figuring out the buses and trains.

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What we did:

The first thing we did was find our walking tour. Of all the tours we walked in Europe, this was my favorite, mostly because our tour guide was enthusiastic, entertaining, and knowledgeable. The tour started at the Cathedral of Barcelona, wound its way through the Gothic Quarter, and ended on the boardwalk to the beach.

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Cathedral of Barcelona
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Classic old city streets.
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The large bricks at the base of this tower are from the original Roman town!
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Just some real Picasso decor on a building.
The back side of the Cathedral.
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The steps where Columbus returned to meet Ferdinand and Isabella after discovering the Americas.
Statue depicting a Catalan tower.
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Boardwalk to the beach.

My favorite thing we learned about, on our tour, was the local Catalan culture. Barcelona is in the Catalonia region of Spain and carries its own unique mix of culture and language. For example, they speak Catalan, a mix of Spanish, French, Portuguese, and I don’t know what else. They also have a culture highly steeped in group connections. Case in point, they have their own competitive sport called ‘Castell’ where they work together to make human castles- or human towers. The highest on record was 10 levels of people standing on each others’ shoulders. These towers require over 100 people in order to build a strong base, with the following levels decreasing in size, and the last level consisting of a small child (5-7 years old). The goal is to construct and deconstruct the tower without falling and they actually compete in it! The whole phenomenon is so interesting I’ll share a video here.

After our tour we trotted back through the city finding “Las Ramblas” (a tourist walking street), plazas, and chocolate drinks.

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We walked Las Ramblas for about 2 blocks just to say we were there.

We had dinner at Granja Viader. They are known for their dairy free chocolate drinks. Briana was as happy as a clam with her restaurant find.

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Placa de Catalunya

The next morning we started our day off in Park Guell. It was designed by the artist Antoni Gaudi with the owner of the land, Eusebi Guell, to be a state of the art neighborhood. For several reasons it never ‘took off’ but has now been turned into a park. I think the most interesting thing about Gaudi’s works (he designed several houses throughout the city as well as a church that I will mention later) is how they differ from the architecture of the city. Often I feel that older cities have a way of keeping their buildings with a theme, but Barcelona breaks that stereotype by adding symbolic splashes of color and curves across its standard European backdrop.

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Looks like CandyLand came to life.
The famous lizard, with a tourist, because this IS Barcelona.

From Park Guell we walked to the Sagrada Familia in sprinkling rain. We would have preferred to take a bus, but we couldn’t find the right line, so we walked it.

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Walking in the drizzle.
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We found it! The Sagrada Familia (The sacred family) is a church over 100 years in the making. It was designed by Gaudi with 3 ‘fronts,’ one of Christ’s birth, one of His death, and one of His resurrection. Only this side was completed in his lifetime.
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It’s hard to take selfies with tall objects.
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The only back side of the church.
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Started in 1882, this church has yet to be completed.

From the church we found lunch. I can’t say that we totally figured out the meal situation in Spain, even on our last day there. It seems like all the meals are tapas (appetizer dishes), but maybe we missed something?

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Proof the meals are small.

Since this was our last day in Europe after 3 weeks of travel, we wanted to squeeze the most out of every last moment, so we marched on from lunch to a museum. Our fabulous tour guide from the day before had suggested the History Museum of Barcelona, so we went to check it out. Almost the entirety of the museum is underground walkways through uncovered Roman ruins. It was very, very cool and we would definitely recommend it!

History Museum of Barcelona
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Our last stop of the day was to The Olympic Sports Complex. We didn’t play anything but it’s at the top of a hill and lends itself to a beautiful view. Also, we were told that we could ride outdoor escalators to the top, which has since become one of my favorite forms of transportation!

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Outdoor escalators.
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View on the way back down from the steps of The National Art Museum of Catalonia.

And that was it. The end of our time in Barcelona, and in Europe.

Why you should go to Barcelona:

  1. All the Gaudi architecture. It’s unlike anything I’ve seen in any city and is very cool to see first hand.
  2. It is very visitor friendly. I speak Spanish and I barely used it there because if I took too long to respond, they switched to English. Barcelonians are well accustomed to tourists.
  3. It is an interesting time politically for Barcelona, as it’s vying for its independence from Spain and clinging very much to its Catalan culture.
  4. There’s a million things to see and do.
  5. Everyone stays up late and sleeps in, which is perfect if you are on vacation mode.

A Starting Point: 5 Tips for International Travel

*Originally posted on apanueloworld.com in 2018.

International travel. The very phrase holds connotations of adventure and excitement and respite from routine. Planning it can be overwhelming, especially if you’ve never done it before. There are the obvious things to consider, like checking into visas and shots. But after that, the list of choices you have to make turns into a web and it’s hard to know where to start first. I’m no professional traveler, but I am one of those nerdy people who likes to write down the things I’ve learned. So here’s a starting point if you’re looking for one.

Five things I’ve learned about international travel:

  1. Expect to Plan
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Street map in Antigua, Guatemala.

I would say half of your trip occurs before you go, by way of planning. The key to planning is acknowledging that you are in it for the long haul and willing to do the research. Or, go with someone who is. Because someone, whether it’s you or your travel buddies or your host, needs the information. What works for me is to create a budget and work backwards. Once I’ve settled on a max spending limit, I research airfare, transportation, and accommodations, seeing if I can realistically make the trip happen with my goal budget. If I can, it’s on to more research for things like walking tours, excursions, and must try foods. I also make sure to keep a portion of my budget as a ‘loose category’ for food and souvenirs once I’m on the trip. All this research means you’ll be facing a lot of decisions along the way. Prepare yourself emotionally for that. Things like youtube, pinterest, and travel blogs help if you are looking for personal advice. Even social media and conversations with travel savvy friends can go a long way. Take your time, because it’s going to take time, whether you do it stateside or from your hotel room each night on the trip.

  1. Pack Light
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Man navigating a cart over the streets of Venice, Italy.

For your own sake, please pack light. That’s all I can say. If you are staying in one place the whole time, this isn’t as big of an issue. But so many places have so many stairs (they were founded before America and elevators after all). So just think about how often you’ll be carrying your stuff when you make decisions about what to take. My current standard: a carry-on suitcase and a big bag that fits under the seat in front of me. To compensate for the light packing I always make sure I’ll have washer access every few days of my journey, ideally in my hotel/apartment. Apartment access laundry is the best because it allows me to optimize my time, spending daylight hours touring and evening hours unwinding and laundering. Also, the general consensus is to take things that layer and can mix and match. That way, if you are wearing the same clothes for 3 weeks, at least it isn’t the same outfit for 3 weeks.  

  1. Expect to Use Your Phone Differently
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Last wifi before a 24 hour flight to Asia.

Let’s talk phones. You don’t need an international phone plan if you are going to have wifi access every night at your hotel. *2023 update: I recommend getting a local, tourist friendly SIM card. Nowadays they are easy to use and make travel even more convinient.* It is nice though to have a backup wifi option for things like contacting airbnb hosts about arrival times and getting an uber. One thing I do to cut down on my wifi reliance while traveling is to download google maps so they can be viewed offline. I also save our destinations as favorites so they show up as little hearts on my map. This makes them findable when I don’t have a wifi dependent search option and helps keep me oriented in new places. Otherwise, some cities have city wide wifi, free wifi at coffee shops, or on public transit.  If this is the case where you’re going, you definitely don’t need the phone plan. Just do your research. Also, look into outlet adapters. Some countries need them, some don’t. But if you need one, you’ll want one, otherwise your phone will die and you’ll be stuck.

Other things I use my phone for: splitwise and google translate. Splitwise is an app that allows everyone in the group (who has the app) to keep track of their ‘tab’ and pay each other at the end. When I travel I try to have everyone put in their receipts every night. This helps me keep track of my expenses and means that we can all take turns paying for things without getting confused. Yay for technology! Google translate is a lifesaver for things like reading parking signs and translating interesting plaques. I haven’t tried it much for actual communication yet, but I know it’s helpful for that too. Just make sure you download the languages ahead of time so you can use it without wifi.

Bonus tip–don’t forget to empty your photo memory before you go.

  1. To Be Safe, Be Smart
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My sister and I with some artificial fear of Guatemalan volcanoes.

One big concern I often hear of is safety, especially as a female traveler.  The key to safety is, be smart.

Don’t

  1. Go out alone or at night if you don’t feel safe.
  2. Respond to catcalls. They aren’t the kind of greetings you want to be encouraging.  

Do

  1. Communicate with your group about expected meet up times.  
  2. Appear confident. Act like you know where you’re going, even if you don’t.  
  3. Self advocate. That means, you can ignore people who are rude or ask someone to stop bothering you if they are.  
  4. Trust your instincts. That means, if you don’t feel safe somewhere, leave. Switch train cars.  Cross to the other side of the street. Go home early. Whatever you need to do.
  5. If you think you are being followed, go into a store, make small talk with the people behind the counter, or use the reflections from windows to check your surroundings.  

It’s okay to be a little suspicious of people. But don’t let that fear ruin your travels. Just know that if you are in a questionable situation, these are some strategies you can use to get yourself out of it.  

  1. Expect Culture Shock
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Motorbikes and electric lines are sights worth seeing in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

You’ve made it! You’ve done the planning, thought through all the angles, and now you’re here.  On your trip. And you still have decisions to make. And you’re processing all the new information coming at you 100 miles an hour. Language barriers. Cultural barriers. Steps and lines and crowds and things you just didn’t think about expecting. Well, I’m here to tell you to expect it…and embrace it! Think about the culture you’re interacting with and learn from it. Are they friendly? Learn how to say hello. Are they efficient and avoid eye contact? Learn to respect space. If this is your first time out of the country, culture shock is inevitable. It’s okay to be surprised that people live efficient, productive lives in a totally different way than you’ve imagined or experienced. But it’s not very nice to talk about it in front of them. So, take along a heart of gratitude and learning. In my experience, you can barter with your fingers or by writing numbers. Bathroom/toilet seem to be pretty universal phrases, but hello and thank you are the bare minimum connectors between kind humans. Whether or not language is an obstacle for you to overcome, there will be something about that culture that’s different. That means, even when you have to pay for a toilet or people budge you in line, you can embrace that experience because, if nothing else, it’s authentic. Enjoy it!

And that’s my list. Hope this gets you one step closer to an international adventure.

Souvenirs Worth Buying

*Originally posted on apanueloworld.com in 2018.

What’s the stupidest thing you ever bought or took home as a souvenir?  Something that makes you roll your eyes now, or you possibly have already thrown away.

For me, it’s this little Vietnamese doll key chain.  It’s too big to use, and yet, I still have it!

I’ve also finally decided that I don’t need to collect everyone’s currency anymore.  I will usually have a little left over anyways, if I think I need to save some to look at later.  But really, I’m not doing educational tours, displaying what other people’s money looks like, and I’m definitely not using it to buy anything here.  So it sits in a box in my drawer, perhaps awaiting the day that I return to said places and want to buy a stick of gum.

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My view of souvenirs has changed as my travel experiences change.  On my first international trip I bought things because I saw them in a lot of stores and thought buying one would help me remember that place better.  This is false, by the way.

What I’ve learned is that the best souvenirs are either 1. functional or 2. carry an emotional attachment.  If I will use something in my every day life, it becomes a functional reminder of that trip, a happy memory to brighten my day when I use it.

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Photo books, prints, and paintings are also fun souvenirs because they add beauty to your home, serve as conversation starters, and carry personal connections.

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Shutterfly photo books I made when I returned from Asia.
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Free prints from Shutterfly in Ikea frames add a cheap, but personal touch to my decor.
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This is my favorite.  Paintings and prints from my travels smile at me from my living room wall.

If we want to talk function, I have to mention the things you buy that you use on the trip.  Umbrellas when it rains.  Sunglasses when it glares.  Fancy food to tickle your tongue.  It’s functional meets memory making meets memory triggering when you return home.

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Troy and Vanessa and a Venetian umbrella.
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I also got new shades in Venice, since my ones from Chile broke.
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Every time I see Magnum ice cream bars I remember this shop.

And while we’re on the topic of souvenirs, I’m just going to say this one time: Be kind to the sellers.  Bartering is part of the fun and the culture, but don’t be rude.  This is someone’s livelihood also.

Reasons to be picky about souvenirs:

  1. Unless you want to pay shipping, you have to carry them around until you get home.  That means heavy and bulky things should be considered critically.  Think twice before you buy a hammock or a chair.
  2. They cost money and usually the advertised souvenirs are not cheap.  I manage this two ways: 1.  I buy local things, like chocolates and children’s books.  2. I include souvenirs in my travel budget.  That said, every frivolous thing you buy adds to your trip expense.  So choose wisely.
  3. You have to put it somewhere when you get home.  In this minimalistic day-in-age, less is more.  I have found this to be true for souvenirs also.  I prefer to buy one thing I will use often versus four things to store in a memory box.  I love to go through my every day life and run into something I bought elsewhere.  For example, I bought a children’s book in Spain that I read with my Spanish speaking students.  Nearly every time I use it I remember the day I bought it with my sisters while exploring in Barcelona.
  4. This is not your last chance to buy it.  Travel doesn’t have to be once in a lifetime anymore.  Airlines have transitioned from luxury liners to public transportation of the skies.  And you have (hopefully) many, many years to live.  The choices that led you to this trip will likely lead you to another.  You don’t have to buy all your souvenirs in the first place you go.
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My llama, Ignacio, from Santiago, Chile, and a particularly silly cousin girls’ trip.

Which leads me back to my original question: what’s the stupidest thing you ever bought or took home as a souvenir?

Bonus questions: Do you have any souvenirs that you collect from every place?  And, how do you decide if something makes the cut?

Thailand Shmailand

*Originally posted on apanueloworld.com regarding a trip in 2014.

Sometimes trips are long anticipated, awaiting years as they slowly climb up your bucket list. And sometimes, they just work out. So, when your roommate and her cousin are going to visit her brother and cousins a few short weeks after you graduate from 6 long years of college, you take the chance and go. Luckily for me, this brother lived in Thailand.

Betty, Erleen, and I all aboard the all day, not so express- with layovers in Istanbul and Bangkok, flight to Chiang Mai, Thailand. Leg one, we smiled.
My first cross the ocean flight. Needless to say, I was impressed with so many things, especially the hot towel they provided at the start!
So… maybe my eyebrows weren’t quite straight back then. All the better to exclaim with my dear.

In the nearly 10 years since this trip my memories have dimmed to facts, photos, and a residual feeling of rest. I remember that Thailand was so hot that cold showers were preferred. I remember learning about 3 words and conquering a list of adventures (like taking a cooking class and staying at a resort). But most of my Thailand time was me unprogramming from 6 straight years of college and wondering if I’d find a job when I return. So, Thailand was a lot of me becoming a real person again instead of a homework robot and at least 1 midnight phone interview.

Even Ronald McDonald has some cultural competency in Chiang Mai.

The other thing I remember about Thailand is that it felt manageable. Manageable in that it pulled on a lot of skills I already had from my New York life and my traveling Central America life. We took public transit on our own, shopped, and adventured without guides by our sides. I suspect this cultural accessibility is what makes Thailand such a popular travel destination.

Basically uber carpool- a songthaew.

We were so happy to be on vacation we even smiled in the taxi.

In summary, from personal experience, I would recommend Thailand to people who like to travel after enduring many years of struggle. It’s relaxing, adventurous, accessible, and yet, far. Really, it can be anything you need it to be I think.

Take a Cooking Class

*Originally posted on apanueloworld.com regarding a trip in 2014.

That’s my travel advice. At least once in your life, take a cooking class. Food is so cultural, so experiential, so essential to our identities. It’s the strange tie between all our childhood memories and the person we’ve become. Years and places change us, but mom’s home cooked meals never change.

So, if you want to experience another place well- eat. Eat their traditional food and comfort food and street food. Eat as much as your stomach and wallet will compromise on.

And cook. At least once. Cooking reveals the insides of food. What ingredients are local, what seasonings keep reappearing. You figure that out when you do it yourself.

Case in point- I never realized how much Thai food involves peanuts and fish oil before our class in Thailand.

Our class involved a trip to the local market before diving into the kitchen (as do all of our lives unless we have some fancy food delivery service…).

Then we stood around a table, following step by step instructions to chop this, stir that, and turn it on high.

We made 3 things- a soup, an entree, and a pasta- stopping to eat between each round while it was nice and hot. I’m pretty sure my first Pad Thai was the one I made for myself here. Classic.

To end it we took a group photo, received our ‘cook book’ copies of all the recipes we made, and boarded a songtell back to the house.

All in all- delicious, adventurous, and bucket list worthy.

If you aren’t traveling right now – no worries! The internet is home to all kinds of cooking videos and classes. Food can always be an adventure, no matter where you are.